In Victorian times it was usual for large country houses to
have a working walled kitchen garden producing food, herbs and flowers for the
family, staff and guests. Great houses were largely self-sustaining in terms of food, especially a hunting lodge that provided its own game and meat.
After the Second World War with reductions in the workforce
and increasing availability of cheap, imported food, kitchen gardens largely
became neglected and many were destroyed. In Ashdown’s case the decline of the
kitchen garden dates from the mid-1920s after Evelyn, Countess of Craven died
and the house was let.
The Ashdown kitchen gardens were laid out some time after
1850. An old map reveals that the kitchen garden was situated on the west side
of Ashdown village. We do not have a record of the layout and design of the
beds but we do know that these lay behind the high sarsen wall that is still
visible today (pictured). The area of the kitchen garden is now a paddock. In front of the
sarsen wall, between the wall and the road, were potting sheds, a mushroom
house and greenhouses that could be heated. These were built up against the
sarsen wall and the outline of the fireplace and flue is still visible today. What we do not know is where the water would have come from for the gardens, a fascinating mystery.
The hothouses would have contained grapevines and other
fruit that would be trained to grow up against the
walls. There may also have been pineapples, which were very fashionable, figs, melons, peaches, apples and pears, gooseberries, rhubarb, raspberries and
redcurrants grown inside soft fruit cages. Vegetables in the Victorian kitchen garden included asparagus,
broad and runner beans, onions, turnips, spinach, cabbages, potatoes,
cauliflower, kale, beetroot, carrots, lettuce and Jerusalem artichokes. Salad vegetables, tomatoes and cucumbers, were also grown, alongside herb beds. It is likely that the greenhouses would also contain flowers that could be cut and used for decoration in the house.
According to the census returns there were six gardeners at
Ashdown during the later Victorian era but there may have been others who came
in to work from the local villages. In addition to the kitchen gardens they
also had to keep the formal gardens and parterre looking good.
At Knightshayes House in Devon and a number of other National
Trust properties there are existing or restored kitchen gardens and I’m
grateful to the information provided by Knightshayes that gives us an insight
into the sort of fruit and vegetables that would have been grown at Ashdown. You can read more about National Trust kitchen gardens
here.